Nestled in the rugged landscape of the Tzoumerka mountains in northwestern Greece lies the picturesque village of Syrako. With its stone-built houses and cobblestone streets, it offers a unique glimpse into the past, making it a must-visit destination for travelers seeking an authentic Greek mountain experience.
This small mountain village is not easy to reach. Although it’s only 50 kilometres from the city of Ioannina, where we are staying this week, the car ride took us one and a half hour. That has everything to do with the height of this village, at an altitude of 1150 metres on the western slopes of Mount Lakmos. Endless hairpin bends took us higher and higher, and deeper into the mountains. But the village is definitely worth the long ride.
One of Syrako’s most striking features is its traditional Epirus architecture. The village is renowned for its stone-built houses, which harmoniously blend with the surrounding landscape.
I visited this village thirty years ago, as part of a six-weeks-hike by foot through the high Pindos-mountains. Back then, only a few people lived in this almost abandoned place. What strikes me most, visiting Syrako after al these years again, is the pretty good state of the village. Clearly, much effort is spend on restoring the private houses, streets and public buildings.
The day of our visit was a Sunday, and the main square was full of people who now live in Ioannina, but came to visit their birthplace. Mostly retired people who greet their friends from the village warmly, drink their coffees and ouzo’s, the men all leaning om their wooden walking sticks called klitsa, typically for this region.
Syrako’s history dates back to the 15th century, a period when the village began to thrive under the influence of the Vlachs, a Latin-speaking people known for their pastoral and mercantile skills. The inhabitants worked as shepherds, earning their money with selling their milk, cheese, wool, and by producing beautiful woodwork, wollen tapestry and silver artifacts. By the end of the 18th century its population reached 4000 inhabitants.
Statues in the village show us some of them became famous. Kostas Kristallis (1868–1894) was author and poet. Ioannis Kolettis (1774–1847), was a politician, he became ambassador in Paris (1836-1843) en the first Constitutive Prime Minister of Greece (1844–1847). Georgios Zalokostas (1805-1858), was a fighter during the Greek War of Independence. He also wrote a series of poems.
Syrako has two folk museums. One is the former home of poet and novelist Kostas Krystallis. The museum shows household items, as well as the poet’s memorabilia. The other folklore museum is the mansion of Ermineia Photiadou. It shows furniture, needlework and embroidery, costumes, household utensils and photographs.
Nature lovers will definitely find Syrako to be a paradise. The village offers breathtaking views of the surrounding mountains and valleys, making it an ideal spot for hiking and nature walks. Popular trails lead to nearby villages like Kalarites and through the stunning Arachthos Gorge, offering opportunities to explore the unspoiled beauty of the Tzoumerka region.
The best time to visit Sirako is in late spring or early autumn when the weather is pleasant.
Syrako offers a range of traditional guesthouses and small hotels, providing a cozy and authentic stay experience. These accommodations, often housed in restored historical buildings, allow visitors to fully immerse themselves in the local culture. See for example:
– Casa Calda Guesthouse, the traditional mansion of the Bitsios family which was built in 1864.
– Paleo Scholio, lhotel in the old school of the village.
By leaving in the end of the day, we saw this sign in Greek, which says: “I love my village, and take care of it.”, which completely emphasizes the feeling we had this day.
